Bed modification

dianescraps · Post by **dianescraps** » November 25th, 2016, 5:01 am

Just a heads up.

Ours also broke at the piston on the drivers side, and was ready to break at the piston on the passenger side. We were able to get the repairs covered under warranty and honestly I think the repair is now better done then the original.

Houston Remodeler · Post by **Houston Remodeler** » June 15th, 2016, 4:09 pm

Yes but its tight so we use the bathroom to get around. Its easier

uct · Post by **uct** » June 14th, 2016, 4:56 pm

Thanks for the repost. I was confused because my 16 24rls has the divider in place from the factory your second pic.Can you still walk around the bed at the foot end?

Houston Remodeler · Post by **Houston Remodeler** » June 14th, 2016, 4:16 pm

See if this works

: bed modification start point.jpg (98.2 KiB) Viewed 3240 times

: bed modificationframe removed .jpg (94.56 KiB) Viewed 3240 times

: bed finished.jpg (76.58 KiB) Viewed 3240 times

Post by **Administrator** » May 16th, 2016, 9:36 pm

I apologize. During the transition to the new server, it appears that select (random) photos on the server are no longer tied to the board.

If you could re-post the photos, that would be the easiest way to get them back.

uct · Post by **uct** » May 16th, 2016, 1:52 pm

Could you please repost the pictures I can not view them since the website upgrade. Thanks

Houston Remodeler · Post by **Houston Remodeler** » December 7th, 2015, 1:09 am

Our bed frame started to come apart due to the piston on the passenger side pushing the side support framing towards the rear of the trailer. The panel on that side popped off.

Since we have a 'normal' queen mattress, lifting the mattress and plywood was quite the chore given the limited space and the weight of the mattress.

I decided to fix both problems with one solution; rebuild the bed frame. We did several things;

1- Previously we had installed some 3/4" plywood between the storage area under the pillows cutting off the under bed storage area. This added support to the flimsy plywood and prevents people / animals / cold wind from entering the trailer from the storage area.

2- We removed the bed frame except for the side to side storage area which supports the pillow area and the side tables.

3- We made a new frame from poplar; 2x2 along the top, 1x2 on edge along the floor, and 1x2 legs at the corners. We made these 38' long to support the longer mattress.

4- We cut one piece of 3/8" plywood 58 ½ " by 29½" to replace the now-too-short plywood supporting the new mattress which is 6 inches longer than the factory matza mattress.

5- The cut off piece of plywood was cut in length to 49½ inches and turned into a sheer panel for the end support of the bed (foot end) This made the under the bed space a few inches wider so we could easily fit 4 standard sized totes under the bed.

6- The sides of the bed frame have no plywood or mid supports. They are left open so we can slide the totes over the 1x2 (which is screwed to the floor) for easy access. Normally you can't see the totes as the bed linens drape over the sides. The 1x2 strips also keep the totes in place while in transport.

7- We lengthened the under plywood mid support 2x2 framing to the new sheer panel to remove some of the sag and support the new plywood

8- We screwed the bed plywood to the frame as there is no more need to lift the mattress to gain access to the under bed storage. This significantly strengthened the entire frame.

9- If the mood strikes, I may stain the front sheer panel to match.

The dog cage was used to hold the bed up while working. While not specifically prohibited in the OSHA manual, I doubt its endorsed.