Starcraft RV Owners Forum

Here is my solution to the problem.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BEba0y-Rh-8

I had the same issue with my tailgate coming down on just the hand held part of the jack handle. I tried to rotate the assembly but the bolt holes wouldn't align, so I put it back in original mount holes. I then realized the cables on the tailgate were almost tight, but I couldn't let the weight of the tailgate on the handle without denting the gate. So, I took the jack post off again, went to a welding shop and asked them to cut the handle and weld in a 2 inch piece of hardened steel to make it longer. In about 20 minutes they handed it back to me and you can not tell it was ever done. They ground it down at the welds and after a quick spray paint, it looks original, and new. Best part - no charge. The swing, or rotation is bigger now, but I need the exercise.

Thanks for the update.

I have had a chance to pull my trailer a couple of times on 180 mile trips since installing the 16 inch shank and have not seen any difference in the way the trailer handled, no problems with sway or bounce, no difference in backing or turning, no difference except that I can lower my tailgate without unhooking the trailer.

Decided to go ahead and order the 16in shank, I will try it and give an update after I use it a couple of times.

Ours sticks out really far as well, which is actually a blessing. The Yukon tailgate is able to open and miss the jack stand assembly.

I don't think they would design it with the pin hole that far back and protruding that far foward if it wasn't capable of taking the tongue weight load it is designed for.

At least, that is what I am hoping when I am towing!

Has anyone used the 16 in receiver shank to get enough set back to be able to clear the trailer jack and be able to lower the the truck tailgate while still hooked to the trailer. I am concerned about that much shank sticking out of the receiver and it being strong enough to take all of the stress of towing.